Farewell, Johnny

Today was the last day of business for Johnny's, a small coffeehouse in Big Timber.

Businesses come and go, but in a small town (Big Timber's population is just over 1,700) losing any business can create a large gap, not necessarily in terms of real estate but rather in the heart.

People who pass through, if they notice at all, will think it is just another empty building. Locals will think about the good times they had there behind those blank windows where the OPEN sign will never be turned on again.

The hot cups of coffee and tea, breakfast burritos and tacos for lunch, the backgammon games, the chance to meet with friends and neighbors or chat with Johnny . . . these are now memories.

When Johnny's opened in April 2013, Scott Romsos (aka Johnny) had big dreams: create a community around fresh food, backgammon championships, maybe some evening music.

But dreams take hard work -- and enough money -- and although Johnny put in his fair share, it turned out to be too much for one person.

Even with the hardest work, a broad customer base is also necessary. "There just aren't enough people [in Big Timber]. You need a bigger group of people to come in and drink the coffee," Johnny said.

But in fact, food was the biggest draw for customers.

"You can't do it just with coffee. I really wanted to do food that was fresh and healthy and homemade, handmade, instead of just taking something and putting it in a microwave. The flip side of that, though, is with me being the only person in here, it was a lot of work. Long, long hours in here."

Yet Johnny wasn't quite alone. There was that community he was striving to build.

"I'm one hundred percent an elementary school teacher. I've never gone into a restaurant, never cooked, never done coffee before, never owned a business before. So this was all basically starting at square number zero. But I would say, one of the beautiful things about being in Big Timber is there were people who would come in, and as I built up a rapport with people, I would start asking questions about business, especially the food side of things. And people were just really, really open and helpful."

For example, "when you're making a burrito, you need to know what your cost is, for everything. Onions, potatoes, meat, eggs. Beforehand, just cooking for myself, I would just kind of grab. The way I like to cook is go into the refrigerator and see what's there and throw something together. So that was the biggest piece of advice I got."

Johnny's fresh tacos were a big hit.

Johnny is both philosophical and practical about the closure.

"I just really like talking to people. That was hands down the best part of this job. I feel like I really poured myself into this place. So [closing] wasn't something I really wanted to do. But I just couldn't go on anymore, with barely breaking even every month."

Despite the closure of his business, Johnny has no regrets about having given it a try. He's looking forward to the future: Maybe go back to teaching elementary school, perhaps overseas. Do a little fishing.

We'll miss you, Johnny, but we wish you the best of luck. May the fish be always near and hungry.

Road Kill Saloon

I love Montana. People are just plain original here. I don't know any other place where you can find South Jersey hoagies served in a rustic diner called the Road Kill Saloon.

The Road Kill has been around for a while. The story I heard is that it was originally located in McLeod (current population: 6), but in 1947 it was moved (and I do mean the entire building) to its present location after the owner fell out with the folks in town. It now sits a few hundred yards from McLeod, just out of sight.

Holly Glaze bought the business, brightened it up, and then opened it in September 2011. She grew up in New Jersey but came to the McLeod area with her father when he was an outfitter. When she was 16, she looked around the Road Kill and promised herself she'd buy the place someday.

The new Road Kill still looks like a saloon, with its well-stocked bar, water buffalo head, and keno machines. But the fireplace makes it warm and cozy, and the corrugated iron seats of the booths, while slightly chilly when you first sit down, are stylish.

Holly was determined to do it right and so her remodeling is still in progress. The current menu of hoagies, soup, elk chili, and nachos is limited by the kitchen currently being worked on, but the goal is to add heartier fare such as steak and crab salad by summer.

For authentic hoagies, Holly imports traditional Philly rolls from back East. I'm not sure if this makes the hoagies taste better than if the bread was made in Montana (my vote would be to give it a try), but it does give the food a certain mystique, and the sandwiches are quite tasty. I ordered a bowl of tomato basil soup as a side dish and was pleased with the taste.

I've heard people saying the prices are a bit high, with a whole hoagie being $12 and a bowl of soup $3. But my thought is that (1) half a hoagie is $6 and it is the size of a regular sandwich, which typically costs about that in Big Timber and more in Billings or Bozeman; (2) you always pay for atmosphere, which you get a lot of here; and (3) listen, people, you are supporting a woman-owned local business -- would you prefer an out-of-state corporation owned the place (cheaper food for sure, in every sense of the word) or, worse, the building was sitting vacant?

The locals, I hear, are happy the Road Kill is back in business. To get here, you have to drive 16 miles south from Big Timber, which is the nearest place to eat out. And nothing in Big Timber has the ambience of the Road Kill. It's unique.

The surrounding area, called "the Boulder" by locals because the Boulder River runs through it, is uniquely Montana, too, with sweeping vistas framed with snow-dusted mountains. The drive alone is worth your money.

Holly's Road Kill Saloon

16 miles south of Big Timber

look for it on the left just before you get to McLeod

406-932-6174

Real good Mexican food

Since 1963 the Torres Cafe has been providing delicious Mexican food to the lucky people living in or passing through Billings.

I can't say enough good things about this family-owned restaurant. The waitresses are happy and friendly, the service is fast considering that everything is made from scratch, and the food is absolutely, mouthwateringly, delicious.

On my first visit I had the midweek pork carnitas special, which includes 3 small corn tortillas (handmade in the kitchen) and a pile of shredded seasoned pork. Today, having learned my lesson that eating a lot of good food can sometimes be too much, I ordered a moderate-size taco bowl, shown in the photo. Just right in every sense.

In the photo you can also almost see a bottle of Jarritos soda made in El Paso, Texas. This comes in several flavors, and I chose my waitress's personal favorite, mandarin. It is a refreshing not-too-sweet beverage made from cane sugar. I was sorry to learn that it no longer comes in watermelon or tamarind flavors, so I think I'll try lime next time.

I was also a bit sad to learn, after talking to one of the family owners, that Torres will probably die with the current generation. The younger members of the family, who literally grew up in the restaurant, are all too aware of the work hours that go into such a business. They prefer to spend quality time with their families and have chosen other professions.

But meanwhile we can all enjoy this fabulous food. Go, go, go to Torres and eat your fill!

And in addition to the food, there is plenty of visual entertainment. Hanging on the walls and from the ceiling are many interesting Mexican items, including bullfighters painted on velvet, wooden carvings, pinatas, and cooking utensils.

If you're small enough, a ride on a bucking bronco is well worth the price.

Or try your luck with the Fun Chicken. I have no idea what's in any of those eggs, but why not find out for yourself?

If you're in a more serious mood, perhaps needing peace and quiet or even spiritual guidance, you can stop for a moment in the meditation room, which opens right off the dining area. The owner's mother donated one Catholic statute many years ago, and the collection grew from there.

To find the cafe, go to the Kings Avenue exit (exit 446) and turn south, then west onto Frontage Road. Look for all the cars of eager customers.

Torres Cafe

6200 South Frontage Road

Billings MT 59101

406-652-8426

Molt breakfast with a touch of Bailey's

Today's journey began a couple of years ago, after I first moved to Montana, when someone told me to "have breakfast in Molt." I have long forgotten who that was and anything else they told me, but I have been planning to eat breakfast in Molt ever since.

Friend Kathy did the driving, but I felt a bit tense, wondering what we would actually find in Molt. I didn't even know the name of the restaurant . . . would we find it? would there still be a breakfast served? But Kathy, who loves road trips that don't take you anywhere in particular, was cheerful about the adventure.

Molt was easy to find: drive north past Laurel for about half an hour. And we soon saw the restaurant was not only visible -- make a quick right on Wolfskill Road as soon as you hit town -- but very obviously in business as evidenced by the many cars (the only cars in town) parked around the building.

Molt is very small, and although there are a few buildings in current use, the nearest one to the cafe, besides the post office, was this house:

But the Prairie Winds Cafe was jumping.

The moment we entered, I knew this was a really, really cool place. Bluegrass music, tons of people, plates piled high with delicious-looking food, walls lined with full shelves from the building's days as the area mercantile. So many things to look at, listen to, savor.

We stood in line for a few minutes, then saw two empty places at a table nearby. Four other people at the table were already devouring pancakes and eggs. With permission, we sat with them. And that's a really nice feature of this place: you get to meet other diners.

In fact, things got so friendly that our table companions asked if we'd like some soy milk, which they were passing around in a green metal beverage container and pouring into their coffee. One of their party was lactose intolerant. When we learned there was Bailey's Irish Cream liqueur in the container, too, we suddenly realized we shouldn't be drinking so much milk and we accepted the offer. I'll have to say that Bailey's really livens up a cup of hot chocolate!

It really livens up conversation, too. In between laughing and sipping our "coffee," we were told the hash browns were made from fresh potatoes, and that you get tons of food, so don't order too much. Apparently, they have very tasty pie, too, but I ordered a cinnamon roll to take out. (Don't do this yourself; I don't know what it would have tasted like if I'd eaten it right there, but it was plenty dry by the time I got home. Next time I'll take home a piece of pie.)

We found out that a lot of people drive here or cycle from Billings, which is about an hour away, and as we were eating I saw a young woman from Japan walking around taking photos like any tourist. Or, perhaps, she has a blog, too. But it's obvious this cafe's reputation has traveled far and wide.

If you arrive when the cafe opens at 8:30 am, there will be a huge crowd, but at our arrival time of about 10 am, the crowd was thinning considerably.

Do not expect fast service. This is a leisurely experience that should be savored as much as the food. For when our food did arrive, I suddenly understood exactly why that long-ago unknown person told me to "have breakfast in Molt." The ambience is terrific and you should definitely go if only for that, but the food!! Delicious!

Of course the photo does not do justice to my meal, but it gives you an idea of how high the food is piled on. Although you can see the English muffins and a corner of my omelet, the plate was mostly covered with hash browns, and I can highly recommend them.

A repeat customer told us that if you go during the week, there might be one other person sharing the room with you, and there won't be any live music, but it would be a good time to taste lunch items.

Another repeat customer summed up the entire experience: "You always leave with a pep in your step," Although I must add the disclaimer here that she was the one who had brought the, er, soy milk.

I didn't get much practical information about the cafe, such as when it opened ("a few years ago," according to our table mates) or when it is open for business. But just keep in mind that on Saturday, you should arrive between 8:30 and 10:30 to sample the breakfast menu. I believe someone said the cafe closes at 3 pm on Saturday.

Call the cafe to get answers to your other questions: 406-669-3857.

But whether or not you remember to call ahead, do visit Molt on a Saturday morning. I'll share my table with you!

Nashua market . . . and more dinosaurs!

My intertwined journey of farmers markets and dinosaurs continued today. This morning I visited Fort Peck, which is known for its dam and lake (both of which are impressive), a theater (I'm sorry I missed this week's production of The Foreigner), and dinosaurs!

This Tyrannosaurus Rex is quite the beauty. Did you know females like this one were much bigger than the males? Below is a photo of the outside of the window where she stands, which shows how she is two stories tall.

After looking at exhibits in the museum, I drove to the field station where locally dug up bones are cleaned and sorted. You can take a tour and see where the paleontologists work and where the real bones are stored (usually those in the museums are replicas) and even hold one! Does it get any better than this?? I cradled a head bone that was 66 million years old.

As I drove the 12 miles to Nashua, I wondered what was hitting my car and causing a soft "plop plop plop." Then I realized it was grasshoppers! They are everywhere, and I had to keep my windows closed so none got inside. Occasionally, a rather daring one would ride the windshield for a while.

Before I hit the farmers market, I stopped at Bergie's in Nashua.

This is one of those places you might skip in favor of McDonald's if you are not the adventurous type, but in this case you would really be missing out.

Customer service is primo, as I discovered when I asked what was the most popular item on their menu. Mandie, the young waitress, called Traci, the cook, over and together they reviewed the menu for me.

I ordered a hamburger, had a choice of 12 sides (including beer-battered fries, salad, or cottage cheese) and opted for plain fries, and tried a Green River fountain drink. Not the most inspired food -- although it was freshly cooked and delicious -- but I'll tell you that being treated like a valued person made my meal seem like it was worth a million bucks. (In fact it all cost a mere $5.75.) After the market, I came back to try their house-made ice cream -- in my opinion, worth a trip to Nashua!

Finally, this evening I was able to visit the Nashua market. The local Lions Club sponsors the market, and they were selling zucchini cupcakes and coffee. This was definitely a social event.

About 7 vendors sold produce as well as jams and jellies, crocheted items, and jewelry. Along with addictive rosettes (a fried cookie), the town printer was selling bumperstickers and said she would print slogans on aprons, t-shirts, and tote bags. She also published the Lions Club cookbook that was for sale, and I had to buy one so I could get that tasty cupcake recipe.

Nashua Farmers Market

Lions Club Park, on the main street

July 14 - September 22

Tuesday, 5 pm - 6:30 pm

Hardin market and chokecherries (or not)

I was up at 5 am to get to the Hardin farmers market at opening time. It is a small market, and so I figured vendors might sell out quickly. Well, I made it at 9 am, an hour and a half after opening, and I was right: I missed the crowds and a lot of the produce. Still, I was able to talk to each vendor and admire what was left.

The Little Horn State Bank hosts the market and an average of 5 vendors set up tables under the shaded front awning. One farmer comes 109 miles from Ryegate to sell his produce, so right there you know it has to be a good market. I was told customers line up at 7 am, even before the official opening at 7:30, to make their purchases and go on to work. They tried a Saturday market, but everyone leaves town on the weekend (there really isn't much to do in Hardin), and so the Friday morning market continues to flourish.

produce at 9 am

Hardin is a few miles from the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, where Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer fell in 1876, and so downtown you will find places like Fort Custer General Store (its 2 stories filled with, well, EVERYTHING) . . .

. . . and reminders of when the annual reenactment will take place.

Another eagerly anticipated event is the duck race down the main street of town. A hydrant is opened, and a participants can win as much as $500 if his or her duck floats the fastest. It's also a fundraiser for artists at the Jailhouse Gallery.

I have to mention the Purple Cow Restaurant near the freeway. It doesn't look like much, but it has terrific homemade food. I was told that if they can make it themselves, they will. Sure enough, my hamburger was in a tasty "real" bun. They are known locally for their $18.25 Montana Breakfast, which includes 3/4 pound sausage, ham, or bacon, 4 eggs, 12 pancakes, 3/4 pound hashbrowns, and 1 pint orange juice. I don't think this is a one-person meal. Not for me, anyway.

It was hard to leave all the excitement in Hardin, but I was determined to check out a chokecherry festival while I was more or less in the area. It was a long, hot 119-mile drive to Broadus, but I finally arrived at the striped tent set up in the park -- alas, only to find a few jars of chokecherry jelly in the midst of a large, well-attended flea market.

Still, they have a great-looking sign (which mentions the rodeo that same day), and there are plans to make it into something really special next year. So we won't give up on it yet.

I was feeling peckish, and so I splurged and stepped into a well-known restaurant called the Judge's Chambers. I paid $7.95 for their Banoffee Pie: bananas and toffee sauce on a puff pastry crust, all topped with whipped cream and a splash of chocolate sauce.

It was OK, but for a restaurant that prides itself on fresh ingredients, some picked from their kitchen garden, I was disappointed to find a very strong taste of canned milk in the toffee. I imagined (though don't know) they made the toffee by cooking condensed milk in its closed can, which is actually the authentic way to make it, but if you're being creative with the crust and general appearance anyway, why not make a better-tasting simple toffee sauce from scratch.

Some years ago I had a piece of the original Banoffi Pie at the Hungry Monk in Sussex, England. The original recipe puts the canned-milk toffee sauce in proper perspective, so it tastes very nice indeed.

But that's not why I would call this the second-worst dining experience of my life. (The first was a visit a few years ago to a vegetarian restaurant in Woodinville, Wash., where the young male waiter made several comments on how I was eating alone, as if that was something nice women don't do.)

Part of any dining experience is feeling you are a welcome guest. As I stood waiting to be seated in a nearly empty room, I was stared at by a sullen dishwasher, who apparently resented the thought of having more dishes to do. Then, after a rather long, lonely wait (did I mention the room was nearly empty?), I was seated in a cramped area right by the door at a tiny table for two, which had an unpleasant view of the closed front door or, if I sat in the other chair, a view of a Seattle couple, surrounded by empty tables, happily enjoying a lovely garden view out their window.

Basically, I was ignored by the waitress (I did mention the place was nearly empty, didn't I?), while she chatted with the couple and a table of other customers in another sunlit room and made sure they had everything they needed. To her credit, the waitress did stop by to see how I was doing, but there was no friendly patter as at other tables; I opened my mouth to ask a question, but she'd already left. She had an aversion to lingering near me, but who could blame her -- it was the worst spot in the place.

It was a depressing atmosphere to eat dessert in, so as I walked out the door, I was startled to hear the waitress say cheerfully: "Do come again!" I was in no mood to be friendly as I muttered, "Not if I can help it!" Perhaps I should have been forthright in my criticism right there and then, but the whole attitude imposed on my dark corner had been one of "why bother," so I left with that.

Broadus is a typical small Montana town essentially in the middle of nowhere. Fine dining there should naturally be a happy and truly memorable event. Alas for my own experience. I cannot recommend that anyone (except, perhaps, an already happy couple) go out of their way to eat at the Judge's Chambers.

Determined to have a nice final moment in Broadus, I went across the street to the intriguing Copper Moon building, where I was greeted with grins by two happy-looking young women with brightly colored hair, who offered to make me one of their famous milkshakes. Oh, if only I had stopped there first! I wandered around the antiques, arranged in creative groupings, and felt my spirits had lifted enough to leave town with a pleasant memory.

eat dessert here!

One thing you must do in Broadus before you leave is visit the Big Sky Wool Mill. This unique factory sells spun yarn and roving for spinners in its shop, but also accepts wool from all over the United States to make into yarn for individuals. I got a spontaneous personal tour by an enthusiastic employee, who showed me the equipment they use to wash, prepare, card, and spin the fleeces into any type of yarn you need. Fascinating.

Hardin Farmers Market

Little Horn State Bank parking lot,

835 North Center Avenue

August 7 - September 4

Friday, 7:30 am - 11:30 am